1982 Bordeaux: A Vintage Tasting
Hosted by Albert Givton

(Abridged version appears in the September 2000 issue of The Underground Wine Journal)

1982 Red Bordeaux Marathon Tasting, March 2000

This three-day event was held at three leading dining establishments in Vancouver and prepared by three of the most gifted chefs in town. No fewer than 63 châteaux were tasted, including all the first growths and 'Super Seconds'. The wines were tasted by commune. All the wines were from one source, my wine cellar. They have spent the past 15 years practically unmoved, and were cellared at an ideal - and constant - 52°F.The levels were all excellent. The 1982's, acclaimed to be the best overall vintage in Bordeaux since 1961, are now eighteen years old, a good time to assess their state of maturity and overall quality.

First Session, Wednesday, March 1st, 2000

The Metropolitan Hotel (Executive Chef Michael Noble produced an outstanding repast, as usual - both imaginative and a feast to the palate):

This first event featured the communes of Margaux, St. Estephe, and

St. Emilion.

After a glass of Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier N/V we sat down for the tasting. Each flight was followed by a dinner course:

Flight 1: Margaux and Southern Medoc Crus Classés:

  1. Cha teau Prieur¾ Lichine 1982: Bright red colour to rim. Lovely nose of oak, vanilla and spiced fruit. Evolved, silky, well balanced, round with good ripe fruit. Very slight sharpness at finish. Nice peppery fruit and length. This was a pleasant surprise. Ready. (16)
  2. Chateau Cantemerle 1982: Deep, dark colour to rim. Stemmy, herbaceous nose, backed by good ripe fruit. Full, rich, generous on palate with hint of charred oak. Ready but no rush. Not much elegance here but good body. (16.5)
  3. Chateau La Lagune 1982: Charred oak, vanilla and concentrated black fruit on both nose and palate. Generous, full, rich, mouth-filling. Good length. No rush but can be enjoyed now. Fine effort. (17)
  4. Chateau Palmer 1982: Good depth, evolved colour at rim. Classic elegance of the commune on both nose and palate. Expansive, soft, forthcoming, round and perfumy. Lots of breed here. Quite forward. No sense keeping this much longer. (17.5)
  5. Chateau Margaux 1982: As expected, deepest, darkest wine of flight, by a mile. New oak, vanilla, ripe black fruit. Very rich, intense yet at the same time quite restrained. One senses that this wine is not yet showing its whole personality. Try around 2005-2015. Great potential. Very serious wine. The only point to note at this stage is its lack of elegance that is a trademark of the commune. Time will tell. (19)
Flight #2: St. Estèphes:
  1. Chateau Ormes de Pez 1982: Dark colour; palish rim. Ripe yet stemmy on nose with hint of black licorice. Sweet, round and flavourful on palate. Just a hint of oak. Straightforward, rich and round. A pleasant wine that is ready now. (15.5)
  2. Chateau Lafon Rochet 1982: One had to go out of one's way in order to mess up and miss this vintage. This property has succeeded… unfortunately. Deep, dark colour to rim. Hard, dry, unyielding, tight and sharp. Acidity on palate. Unbalanced, odd and lacking ripe fruit. Short finish. Cannot improve. (14)
  3. Chateau Haut Marbuzet 1982: A charmer, and the owners intended this wine to charm, with about 40% Merlot in the blend, a large proportion for a "masculine" St. Estèphe. Deep colour, ripe, leathery nose; rich on palate with lots of lovely ripe fruit. Slightly spirity, but most enjoyable nevertheless. Drink now to 2005. (17)
  4. Chateau Sociando Mallet 1982: This, technically, is outside the boundaries of the commune of St. Estèphe, but if Haut Marbuzet calls itself a St. Estèphe with its high proportion of Merlot, then this property definitely should be included. Very intense, deep, dark colour to rim. Full, powerful, solid tannins, masculine, well balanced. Serious wine. Needs at least 10 more years. Not very complex at this stage, but promising. (17.5)
  5. Chateau Montrose 1982: Much better than expected. Leading wine experts have criticized Montrose in 1982, yet this wine has improved substantially over the last decade. Dense, deep colour to rim. Tight nose with hint of cedar and black fruit. Hint of earthiness. Full, solid, tannic, yet nice fruit and even a little bouquet coming through. Ripe and long. Needs time. Drink 2002-2012. (17.5)
  6. Chateau Calon Ségur 1982: Best effort of this property since 1970 or even 1949. Similar appearance to the Montrose but more evolved rim. Open, cedary, vanilla on nose. Mouth-filling, very good ripe fruit extract. Generous yet the tannins are still a bit tight. Drink now to 2010. Excellent wine. (18)
  7. Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1982: The colour and appearance of the Sociando Mallet. Much more concentrated on nose. Lovely black fruit and cedar in harmony. Hint of dark chocolate. Full, solid, excellent balance. Most enjoyable now but has a good tannic backbone and will last for some time. Drink now to 2015. Top class! (18.5)
Flight #3: St. Emilions:

After a break, we proceeded to the tasting of two flights of St. Emilions. My fear was that the wines would suffer, following the big, Cabernet-loaded St. Estèphes, but the wines held their own.

1. Chateau L’Arrosee 1982: I chose to start this flight with L’Arrosee because this property resembles a Haut Medoc in its character and structure and in the relatively high proportion of Cabernets in the blend. Deep colour to rim. Spicy, stemmy and forthcoming nose with notes of ripe red fruit. Little new oak character but well balanced, with ripe and solid tannins. Drink now to 2010. (17)

2. Chateau Balestard Latonnelle 1982: A wine I know well, having tasted several older vintages, going back to the most impressive 1945. Balestard usually produces fleshy, rich, succulent wines. This seemed a faulty bottle at first, with some mustiness on the nose that cleared after 30 minutes in the glass. Full, rich, fruity and ripe with a solid backbone. Not much complexity, but very good extract, true to this ripe vintage. Rated (14), then upgraded to (16).

  1. Chateau Soutard 1982: Another rich, dark, ripe, full-flavoured wine that is "à point" now, but that can last well for another decade. More complex, longer on palate than the Balestard. Very fine wine. (17)
  2. Chateau Belair 1982: Good dark colour to rim. Classic, cedary, slightly stemmy but ripe nose with hint of oak and vanilla. Lots of class here. Still a bit tannic, even masculine for a St. Emilion, but backed by excellent fruit. Drink now to 2007. (18)
  3. Chateau Pavie 1982: More feminine, rounder, and much more approachable than the Belair. Full, rich, sweet fruit on palate. A joy to drink now. The Belair has the edge in terms of length and complexity, but this is very fine. (17.5)
  4. Dominus Estate 1985, Napa Valley: This wine was introduced double blind. I was hoping that it would integrate itself between two flights of St. Emilions because it is made by a "Right Bank" man (Christian Moueix) and has a fair proportion of Cabernet Franc, a mainstay in St. Emilion. However, it showed how important the terroir is, as even the less experienced tasters guessed this as being a Californian wine with its very deep, youthful colour, its cedary/eucalyptus overtones and very rich ripe fruit - even more obvious ripeness than the 1982 clarets. (17)
Flight #4: St. Emilions:
  1. Chateau Canon 1982: Impressive deep colour. Ripe black fruit on nose with very slight hint of greenness (typical Cabernet Franc). Rich, mouth-filling, ripe, complex and has excellent balance. A classic. Ready but no rush. Drink now to 2008. The best Canon in a generation. (18)
  2. Chateau Magdelaine 1982: While this is a top St. Emilion (geographically), it is also a Moueix property, and the Moueixes have Merlot running in their veins. This wine is a top Pomerol by everything except commune, with over 90% Merlot in the blend. Dense, rich, well balanced, meaty wine. Lots of depth here but a very slight hint of sweetness and over-maturity that bothered me a bit. Very good nevertheless. Drink now to 2007. (17.5)
  3. Chateau Figeac 1982: The best Figeac between the great trio 1961, '64 and '66 and the excellent 1990. With 2/3 Cabernets (both Sauvignon and Franc) in the blend, it is no surprise that this wine was the most herbaceous of the flight, but in a very positive way. Deep colour to rim. Superb extract of ripe red fruit with oak and vanilla blending beautifully. Excellent balance and lingering aftertaste. Lovely wine. Drink now to 2007. (18)
  4. Chateau Ausone 1982: Impressive deep colour to rim; little sign of evolution. Layers of elegant, refined complexity on nose. A bit stemmy, with hint of toasted oak, and ripe red fruit. Smooth, elegant, excellent balance and extract on palate. Clean, lingering aftertaste. Less weight than the Figeac but as much - if not more - complexity. (18)
  5. Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982: As expected, the best wine of the flight, and, with Chateau Margaux 1982, the best wine of the evening - no surprises here. Very deep, dense colour to rim. Explosive nose of ripe, complex black fruit. Full, generous, beautiful balance. Surprisingly forward (the Chateau Margaux is much more restrained and unyielding at this stage). A most impressive wine. (19)
I hasten to add, though, that, having had the good fortune of tasting the 1947 Cheval Blanc on seven occasions over the past 15 years (twice from magnums), the 1982, while a lovely wine, is no 1947. It just doesn't have the massive extract and ripeness of the 1947. If the 1982 turns out to be as good as the 1966, 1949 or the great 1961, we are blessed! We ended the first event with a lovely bottle of Chateau Suduiraut 1982: while it is a known fact that Sauternes produced far greater wines in 1983 than in 1982 (including d'Yquem), the opposite is true with Suduiraut. Bright golden colour. Lovely fruity botrytis, honey and blossom on nose. Great balance, class and lovely ripe fruit. Lingering aftertaste. Drink now to 2010. (17.5)

Second Session: Friday, March 3rd, 2000

Four Seasons Hotel. Executive Chef Douglas Anderson produced a superlative dinner.

Aperitif: 1990 Gewürztraminer "Cuvée Emile Willm" (in magnums): Served with Chinese "amuse-geules". It was exquisite. Telltale exotic spicy flavours of lychees, muscat, wild flowers. Rich, generous, full and lingering aftertaste. An excellent wine from a very fine vintage.

Tonight's subject communes: St. Julien and Pomerol.

Flight #1: St. Juliens:

  1. Chateau Gloria 1982: Bright red colour, evolved rim. Hint of toasted oak on nose. Red cherry fruit, fairly sweet, some ripeness, even hint of leather. Some sharpness at finish. Ready. (16)
  2. Chateau Saint-Pierre 1982: Ripe, spicy and sweet black fruit on nose. Soft, round, generous and well balanced; clean, ripe fruity aftertaste. Ready. (16.5)
  3. Chateau Branaire 1982: Most evolved colour of flight. Dull on nose. Thin, noticeable acidity. Not a good bottle. (14.5). A bottle of this tasted last fall was rich, full-bodied and had a lingering aftertaste. Must retaste.
  4. Chateau Beychevelle 1982: Lovely perfumy nose. Typical elegant style of this property. Round, complex, soft and forward. Hint of toasted oak. Classy wine that will not improve. Ready now. (17)
  5. Chateau Talbot 1982: The exact opposite of Beychevelle, but again, true to this property's style and to the vintage. Cedary, gamy and leathery nose. Very ripe. Very deep colour to rim. Rich, luscious, mouth-filling. Enjoyable now but no rush. Drink now to 2012. The favourite of the flight by most participants. (18)
Flight #2: St. Juliens:
  1. Dominus Estate 1986, Napa Valley: This wine was inserted double blind (the 1985 was introduced double blind in the first session). I chose this wine because when tasted over the past few years, it behaved very much like a fruity Medoc yet it is made by Christian Moueix, and the following two flights of the evening were going to be Pomerols, dominated by the Moueix stable. Indeed, it was a difficult wine to guess. No one guessed California. Most thought that it was a Bordeaux, possibly a St. Julien from a younger (and tighter) vintage. Better in my opinion, than the 1985. Masculine, tannic, even backward, but backed by excellent, spicy and cedary fruit. Very well balanced and lingering aftertaste. Most impressive. Drink now to 2010. (18)
  2. Chateau Léoville Barton 1982: Even in a ripe year such as 1982, Ronald Barton's style of producing leaner, slightly vegetal wines is obvious. Very good extract and dark colour. Noticeable greenness on nose. Complex, elegant but slightly musty (old barrels). His nephew, Anthony Barton, has certainly turned things around with this great property with the 1985 and 1986 vintages. A good wine nevertheless. (17)
  3. Chateau Léoville Poyferr¾ 1982: An important "volte-face" here, after decades of underachieving. Dense, deep, ripe, full and generous. Cedary nose. Lots of weight, depth and extract. Drink now to 2008. Very good. (17.5)
  4. Chateau Gruaud Larose 1982: Very dense, deep colour to rim. Jammy, sweet, intense fruit that lasts forever on palate. Great depth, cedary black fruit. This wine will last for another quarter century, if well cellared. Classic Gruaud and classic 1982. Superb quality. (18.5)
  5. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1982: As great a wine as the Gruaud Larose, yet the exact opposite. Here one finds elegance, class and complexity. Superb balance, refined, cedary. Lovely ripe red fruit. Ripe tannins that blend beautifully. Perfect now or over the next decade. (18.5)
  6. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1982: The most closed, tightest, least forthcoming of both flights of St. Juliens. Hardest, most masculine by far, behaving like a big Pauillac rather than a fruity St. Julien. Very dense deep colour. Cedar, oak, tobacco and ripe black fruit backed by solid, tight tannins. At first, I rated it (18), but after 45 minutes in the glass, it developed such great complexity, length and class that I had no problem upgrading it to a near-perfect (19). Grand Vin! Drink from 2003 to 2025.
Flight #3: Pomerols:
  1. Chateau de Sales 1982: A simple, pleasant wine that reflects the ripe fruity character of the vintage. Hint of residual sugar, even a bit jammy, but pleasant. (15)
  2. Chateau Le Gay 1982: Deep colour, mineral, ripe black fruit on nose. Full-bodied, even hefty, rich, ripe tannins and a solid backbone. Hint of cedar. Drink now or over the next 5-7 years. (16.5)
  3. Chateau Certan Giraud 1982: Alas, the only spoiled bottle of the whole three-day event. A badly corked, musty bottle. Having tasted this wine on several occasions previously, I can only feel that, had it been a good bottle, it would have held its own in this flight. (No score)
  4. Chateau Latour-A-Pomerol 1982: With this wine, we were introduced to a totally different class. This and the rest of the Pomerols tasted below, were the greatest and most consistent flight of this three-day event. While ripe, sweet and intense, everything about this wine is velvety and elegant. Rich, round mouthful of ripe Merlot. Some oak, vanilla. Lingering aftertaste. Will last but will not improve. Perfect now. (18)
  5. Chateau Lafleur-Petrus 1982: The appearance, nose and ripeness of this wine is very similar to the preceding wine with one major difference: still tannic, powerful and, at 18 years, not quite ready! Still some hint of oak and tight tannins. Drink now to 2010. A very fine wine indeed. (18)
Flight #4: Pomerols:
  1. Vieux Chateau Certan 1982: Very similar in structure, approachability, elegance and complexity to the Latour-A-Pomerol, but because of its higher proportion of Cabernets in the blend, slightly stemmier. Lovely now. A wine of great class and elegance. (18)
  2. Chateau La Conseillante 1982: Here we get into the superlatives. Impressive depth of colour to rim. Rich, ripe black fruit on both nose and palate. Spicy, concentrated, rich. Perfection now or over the next ten years. (18.5)
  3. Chateau L'Evangile 1982: Almost black colour. Great, intense extract on both nose and palate and excellent balance. Solid, even tannic. Very concentrated. Massive wine! Not quite ready. Drink 2002-2015. (19)
  4. Chateau Trotanoy 1982: Toasty nose. Full, rich, ripe and long. Great balance and extract but definitely more approachable than the L'Evangile. Silky, ripe, mouth-filling Merlot. Drink now to 2008. Grand Vin! (19)
  5. Chateau Petrus 1982: Here my comments will be very short: Blend 50% each of the Trotanoy and L'Evangile…and enjoy! The complex elegance of Trotanoy and the extract, depth and aging potential of L'Evangile. Drink now…or in the next twenty years, if well cellared. (19.5)
This was the greatest flight. No doubt that 1982 was the greatest vintage for Pomerols since 1947. Now we don't have to guess - now we know!

Dessert Wine: 1982 Orange Muscat "Essencia", A. Quady (California): Having purchased several bottles of this wine upon its release in 1985, I decided to keep two bottles for an extra decade in order to assess its aging potential. The colour hasn't changed much; just lost a bit of its bright orange-gold glow. While still enjoyable, it has definitely not benefited from aging. The fruit has softened a lot, losing most of its Muscaty, spicy character, while the alcohol has come to the fore and has become more obvious. (15)

Third Session: Sunday, March 5, 2000

Lunch at Lumière Restaurant, with Owner and Executive Chef Rob Feenie. Once again, the artistic presentation and exotic flavours of the food were a fitting accompaniment to the wines.

The final event featured various Crus Bourgeois of the Medoc, and the communes of Graves and Pauillac.

Aperitif: Chablis "Moutonne" 1995 Grand Cru, Dom. Long-Depaquit: Bright green golden colour. Lovely mineral, green apples on nose. Crisp, elegant, fresh. A most enjoyable, well balanced wine, no doubt, but lacks in the extra depth and

dimension a Grand Cru of a good vintage should have. Ready now.

Flight #1: Crus Bourgeois and other Medocs:

  1. Chateau Camensac 1982: Medium depth, palish at rim. Stemmy nose, some ripe Cabernet character. Round, elegant, spicy and forward. A pleasant, ready to drink claret that lacks the depth and ripeness one would expect from a 1982. (15)
  2. Chateau Beaumont 1982: Deep colour to rim. Dull, unyielding nose - odd, considering that the wine is 18 years old. Hard, masculine, even tannic on palate, but backed by good ripe fruit. Trying to behave like a big St. Estèphe. Future uncertain, in that tannins may outlive the fruit. (15)
  3. Cuvée de la Commanderie de Bontemps 1982: Medium depth, palish, evolved at rim. Dull nose. Better on palate: elegant, round, good ripe fruit and spicy Cabernet. Ready. (15)
  4. Chateau Potensac 1982: A Medoc produced by the gifted owner of Ch­ teau Léoville-Lascases, Michel Delon, and it shows. Dark colour to rim. Excellent depth. Cedary. Black fruit on nose but still a bit reserved. Solid, rich, ripe on palate with excellent balance and lingering ripe black fruit aftertaste. Clearly best wine of flight. (17)
  5. Chateau Chasse Spleen 1982: The leading wine of the commune of Moulis, made by the late Bernadette Villars, a gifted and dedicated winemaker. Masculinity is the expression of this wine on both nose and palate. Deep, dark colour to rim. Classic, cedary, but still tight on nose. Solid on palate. Still has a tannic backbone but backed by very good ripe, cedary fruit. Drink now to 2010. (16.5)
Flight #2: Graves:
  1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 1982: This property produces consistently well made wines that shy away from the 'modern' hefty, ripe, super-extracted wines. The 1982 is typical of the style. Good depth of colour to rim. Delicate, flowery, spicy nose with earthy overtones. Spicy, toasted oak and ripe red fruit on palate. Elegant, long and very well balanced. Fully mature. (16.5)
  2. Chateau Malartic LagraviÀ re 1982: Rarely complex, this property nevertheless produces rich, solid wines. This example didn't show too well, however. Skunky nose, rubbery. On palate: rustic, solid but a bit too dry for its own good. Not a good example. (14)
  3. Domaine de Chevalier 1982: Very good appearance. Bright red colour to rim. Slight hint of dill on nose. Full-bodied, generous, round and elegant, but noticeable sharpness at finish. A very reliable property but in this case, the 1983 is clearly superior to this. Critics keep insisting that the Graves district (and Margaux) produced better wines in 1983 than in 1982. While I agree about the Margaux, in Graves, however, the 1982 vintage is clearly superior, with the exception of this wine. (16.5)
  4. Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1982: The last vintage to be produced by the former owners, the Woltners-Dewarvins. In 1983 this great property was acquired by the owners of Haut-Brion, signaling the end of an era and the elimination of the only remaining truly great property that posed a threat to the supremacy of Haut-Brion. Excellent depth of colour to rim. Ripe, solid, rich, great extract and beautifully balanced. Hint of tobacco, wet earth and leather on nose. A great bottle. Drink now to 2015. (19)
  5. Chateau Haut-Brion 1982: Impressive deep colour. Tighter, leaner, more elegant than La Mission. Very stylish, true to this property's character. Lingering aftertaste. Excellent. (18.5)
At this point I introduced a mature claret double-blind. Our Executive Chef-Owner Rob Feenie was celebrating his 35th birthday; unfortunately, 1965 was not a very good (not even a decent) vintage. However, as he was conceived in 1964, I figured that we could get away with opening some interesting wines of that vintage.

Chateau Gruaud Larose 1964: Very evolved mature colour. Slightly oxidized, earthy, losing its fruit. Unfortunately, not a very good bottle. Can still be most enjoyable.
 

Flight #3: Pauillacs:

  1. Réserve de la Comtesse 1982 (the second wine of Ch­ teau Pichon Lalande): Lightest, most evolved appearance of flight. Good depth and clean fruity nose. Slightly vegetal (young vines), but has retained the ripe character of this fine vintage. Ready now and will not improve. (16)
  2. Chateau Haut-Batailley 1982: A property that is rarely represented in North America, producing elegant rather than solid wines. Subdued fruity-cedary nose. Good depth, well balanced, ripe spicy fruit and elegant finish. Very slight hint of excessive acidity on palate. Ready now. (17)
  3. Chateau Clerc-Milon 1982: Deep, impressive colour to rim. Peppery, earthy Cabaret on nose. Solid, masculine, ripe tannins are backed by good fruit. Not very complex at this stage but still very lively. Drink now to 2010. (17.5)
  4. Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron 1982: This wine was produced before the AXA group and Jean-Michel Cazes took over the property (in 1988). Dark colour to rim - little sign of evolution. Tight, unyielding nose. On palate: a macho, solid St. Estèphe-like wine. The tannins are definitely there but lacks ripe fruit to compliment them and express the true style of the vintage. Good but not great. This fabulous terroir is producing nowadays some of the finest Pauillacs around. (16.5)
  5. Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 1982: Densest, darkest and deepest wine of flight. Almost California-like cedary ripe nose. Luscious. Great fruit extract, balance and ripe tannins. Not quite ready yet. Drink 2002 to 2015. A classic Pauillac from a classic vintage. (18)
  6. Chateau Haut-Bages 1982: This was a "mystery wine" added by one of the participants: Medium red, good depth. Palish rim. Rustic, tight, fairly hard but backed by nice ripe fruit. (16)
Flight #4: Pauillacs: The last flight of this three day marathon:
  1. Chateau Lynch-Bages 1982: Deep colour to rim - actually quite youthful. Odd, medicinal nose. Good fruit but drying at finish. Clearly, not a good example. However, the wine was not corked. (16). Easily rated (18) on other occasions.
  2. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1982: Bright deep red colour. Ripe, expansive nose that is a bit stemmy with toasted oak overtones. Rich, velvety ripe fruit. Silky, elegant, complex. Gorgeous wine that captures perfectly both the ripe character of the vintage and the elegant style of this "Margaux of Pauillacs". Ready now but will last well at least until 2010. (18.5)
  3. Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1982: Silky, rich, long, generous, superb balance and great class. Chocolate overtones and solid, ripe tannins. A sheer delight to drink now but has so much depth that, if well cellared, it could last well for another quarter century. Grand Vin! (19.5)
  4. Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1982: Surprisingly mature and approachable. Full, rich, generous, cedar, cigar box overtones and very long. A lovely bottle that deserves its reputation of being one of the great wines of the vintage. Drink now to 2010. (19)
  5. Chateau Latour 1982: At least on this occasion, this is the "King" of the 1982 Vintage! While other First and "Super Seconds" are great and superb, this is majestic. Very dark, almost black in colour to rim. Dense, rich, cedary; a mouthful of superb, ripe tannic fruit. Essence of Cabernet. Perfect balance. Not quite ready. Drink from 2005 to 2030. Perfection. (20)
Dessert Wines:

Tokai Aszu "Essencia" 1964 (500 ml bottle):

A second bottle opened in honour of Executive Chef-Owner Rob Feenie's birthday. Excellent acidity has helped this wine retain its freshness. Spicy nose reminiscent of a combination of ripe Muscat and Madeira. Sweet, rich, long, mouth-filling but not cloying.

Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 1982: Structured like "Dow's". Leaner, tighter style. Less sweet than Graham's. Good structure, approaching its peak. A fine effort. Spicy, long and clean. Drink now to 2008. A rarely seen vintage, as most port houses declared the 1983 rather than 1982.

Albert Givton,

Vancouver, Canada

March 2000

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